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Jewellery, An Exclamation, And Epitome Of Grace

Jewellery is like dessert, and there is always room for more. One can never have too much jewellery. We all are obsessed with those shiny pearls and glorious gold that oozes class and grace. From dating back to Rajas and Maharajas, jewellery has played a significant role in expressing beliefs and culture. Just like every kingdom had its religion, food, and clothing, jewellery was on the same page and was often worn as adornments or given as gifts. Jewellery has always been recognized as one of the ways to express aesthetics, class, and culture. There are multiple references where showcasing the fact, be it manuscripts, caves, and carvings, or literature. There are various references to the history of jewellery in India for gemmology, legends, and chronicles providing the evidence of jewellery and its beauty. Be it ornate varieties or heavy embellishment, diverse designs, or material, India has always been a hub of intricate art. 

Ancient jewellery 

The art of jewellery in India goes behind to more than 5000 Years, times when the great chronicles like Ramayana and Mahabharata took place. Various remains of jewellery and broken pieces are found in Harappan Civilisation, giving us a glimpse of ancient Indian jewellery. The ancient Indian necklaces were made of beads, strings, and stones. Later on, people of Harappan Civilisation started off to make ornaments using metals and gems. Ancient Indian patterns were smoothly transformed to include several geometrical, decorative, and nature-inspired designs. 

Despite the simplicity of the pieces found back then, Indian jewellery became more complex and intricate in style and workmanship. 2000 years later, when Mohenjo-Daro was declining, Indian craftsmen and Artisans polished their skills. They began to practice embossed work on gold, filigree, and detailed micro-granulations on gold on pendants and earrings. 

Popular sculptures of Bharat, Sanchi, Amravati, and paintings of Ajanta showcased a wide range of jewellery worn by both men and women of those times. While Silappadikaram, a Tamil traditional style of the Sangam era, talks about society dealing in gold, pearls, and precious stones, the chronicles of Paes, a Portuguese traveler, describe the dazzling jewellery worn by the people of the Vijayanagar empire.

Medieval Jewellery 

Mughal Sultanate started with more beautiful, designer, and intricate jewellery. In the 16th century, they brought innovations to design by using different materials. In that era, the one who possessed precious metals and gems was supposed to be of the royal and riches. The fusion of Indian and Central Asian styles and patterns gave birth to pieces of elegance and exquisiteness like never seen before. Although traces of enamelling jewellery have been found in the ancient town of Taxila, the technique reached its apex only under Mughals. Mughal patronage provided the policies for the expansion of existing folklore in jewellery making by encouraging new techniques. 

India always had a higher status in the imperial world, as a leading exporter of gems and jewellery. For more than 2000 years, India was the only supplier of gemstones to the world. For the rulers, jewels were a statement of power, prosperity, and prestige. But for Indian women, jewellery was, and is, in many parts considered social and economic security, the value of which will almost always appreciate, never depreciate. 

Modern Jewellery 

Indian jewellery began to be more experimental during colonial times when the exchange of ideas with Russia, England, and Indians happened. Since India was a British colony, there was more influence on England. The early 19th and 20th centuries were a phase of a cocktail of styles. Notable appellations of jewellery houses like Mellerio, Lacloche Frères, Van Cleef & Arpels, Cartier, Chaumet,   and Mauboussin came up and became part of the culture. Cartier was recognized as one of the brands that used to manufacture jewellery for the royals. They took inspiration from Paris and Dravidian styles.

The story of the history of jewellery is incomplete without mentioning the two most famous gems in the world, The Kohinoor and Hope Diamond. 

The Kohinoor is a priceless diamond, allegedly the size of a ping pong ball. If legends are to be believed, it was found in Guntur, Andhra Pradesh. The diamond currently resides in the Tower of London, United Kingdom. The diamond’s ownership has been disputed by four countries- India, Pakistan, Afghanistan, and Britain. 

One of the most beautiful diamonds in the world, The Hope Diamond weighs a whopping 45.52 Carats. As beautiful as it seems, the gem is known to be cursed and brings bad luck to its owner. The stone is believed to be plucked off from the sculpted statue of the goddess. 

Today, Indian jewellery thrives on beautiful designs such as Kundan, Jadau, Meenakari, Lacquer, Navaratna, and so many more. The Indian jewellery industry is being led by well-established merchants as well as rising new designers who have received accurate recognition from experts. Fusion jewellery uniting Indian and western flavors have often sparked up the ramps of trendy fashion walks. Not only Indians, but International celebrities were also caught in the magic spell of Indian jewellery. Mang Tikas, Nose rings, jhumkas, and other bits of Indian jewellery have been welcomed by Hollywood personalities. Many international celebrities and music sensation pop stars such as Shakira, Jessica Alba, Selena Gomez have enrobed pieces gracefully, and several others have donned the look with Indian jewellery in the various awards and fashion shows.

Alamkara gallery of the National Museum in Delhi has the most exquisite knowledge and pieces of Indian jewellery. From beautiful pieces of Harappan civilizations to treasuries of Mughals, the collection spans of the important periods and eras. 

Indian jewellery endures a fascination, pulling legacy from the Mughals and Maharajahs to the beautiful synchronous bridal jewellery. It would be somewhat challenging to extend beyond a fashion enthusiast without an inclination for such delicate pieces.